Walking on a Leash

Before we dive into the tricks for teaching your pup to walk nicely on a leash, let’s talk about some of the challenges you’re up against. First off, dogs have something called an opposition reflex, which basically means they’re hardwired to pull in the opposite direction of any pressure. So, the more you pull back on the leash, the more they’re going to yank forward.

To make things even trickier, most people instinctively hold the leash like they’re clutching a designer purse—elbow bent, leash at chest height, with constant tension. Now, I’m not saying you’re “causing” your dog to pull (because most dogs are going to pull wether you put tension in the leash or not), but this setup definitely isn’t helping. So why do people naturally want to pull back on the leash? Physics. If your dog suddenly lunges, having some tension in the leash can make it less of a shock to your system. But here’s the catch: constant leash tension is a surefire way to kill any chance of teaching your dog good leash manners.

When your dog pulls on the leash, and you need them to ease off, try using light, pulsing pressure instead of steady, firm pulling. The opposition reflex kicks in strongest with constant pressure, so this technique can help you manage that instinctive urge to pull.

Ideally, when you’re walking your dog, your arm should hang loose at your side like you’re casually carrying a briefcase. Sounds easy, right? But for many people, that bent-arm posture is so ingrained that they practically need to hook their thumb into a belt loop just to keep from raising their arm.

Another tip for better leash manners: resist the urge to wrap the leash around your hand. When you wrap it up, it’s harder to quickly adjust the leash length. Instead, keep the loop of the leash across your palm or hooked over your thumb. You can manage any extra slack by draping it across your palm or over your thumb just once. That way, if you need to adjust the leash length, you can easily let out or take in more leash without feeling like you’re unraveling a ball of yarn.

Start by introducing the leash indoors. Attach it to your puppy’s collar and let them wander around with the leash dragging on the ground for short periods. This helps them get used to the feel of it. Once they’re comfortable with this inside, it’s time to take the show outdoors.

When you’re outside, resist the urge to play tug-of-war with your puppy on the leash. Instead, use your body language to steer them in the right direction. Think soft movements, slightly bent knees, and face away from your puppy to get them curious and moving toward you. Walking away from them works like a charm—basically, you’re starting a mini game of chase.

Get down to their level and move away while crouching a bit. Use your most excited, goofy voice to grab their attention—try something like “puppy, puppy, puppy!” The goal? Make yourself way more interesting than that random squirrel across the street. As they start heading your way, toss in their name: “Puppy, puppy, puppy, Fido. Good job!” When they reach you, click and treat.

If your pup hits the end of the leash and gets that "what the heck?" look, just stop. As soon as they turn to see why the party paused, soften your stance, move away from them, and cheerfully call them to you. If needed, give the leash a few light pulses. They’ll start figuring out the game and might even start looking at you like, "Okay, where’s my treat?"

Keep this little chase game going, using that bent body posture and happy voice. Click and treat every time they make it to you. Remember, the outside world is full of distractions, so don’t expect miracles—reward every good move. And before your puppy gets bored, head back inside, take a breather, and give it another go the next time they need to go out.

Now that your puppy is comfortable moving around on the leash, it's time to step up the game to a more structured walk. It might help to start with a longer leash (10-15 feet, but nothing too long for your area). The extra space gives your pup a better chance to get it right at first. Start walking with your pup, and anytime they pull on the leash, just stop. Soften your body language and start walking backward without saying a word. If needed, give a few gentle leash pulses. Your pup should recognize this backward movement from that initial leash game. Once your puppy moves toward you and the tension is off the leash, you can continue walking forward. They’re learning that the only way to get where they want to go is by keeping that leash loose.

Once your puppy gets the hang of it on a longer leash, switch to a 6-foot leash and start teaching them to walk closer to you. If they manage to take a few steps without pulling, click and treat! Keep moving while giving the treat to maintain the flow of the walk.

Building loose leash walking skills takes time, so gradually increase the time your puppy can walk next to you between treats. Keep things interesting by changing directions often—this teaches them to stay focused on you because they never know where you might head next. Keep the praise and treats coming for all their efforts to keep this behavior moving in the right direction.

This method works, but in the beginning, don’t expect long, smooth walks. You’ll spend a lot of time stopping and starting—that’s normal. As the days go by, you’ll notice you and your pup will be able to go on longer and more enjoyable adventures together.

Some parts of the walk will get easier over time, but there might still be challenges. For example, your puppy might get super excited about heading home and start pulling like crazy. It’s tempting to just let them pull that last bit, but this is a perfect chance to teach impulse control. Stick with the same techniques you’ve been using, and eventually, your pup will figure out that pulling won’t get them home any faster.